I almost hate to suggest it, but I think FrontPage may have visual CSS editing... Haven't used it with the album CSS though, so it may not be any good...
I know the CSS stuff is pretty hard to deal with. (If it's any consolation, it was hard to write!

) I tried to keep it "relatively" straightforward by using <div>'s to define a scope of "real estate" to deal with. Each div has a class, which corresponds to a class in the style sheet. That class defines how everything between the <div> and </div> tags will appear.
So for example, in album_footer.tml there is this code:
<!-- Insert the information about how many times this photo has been viewed, last viewed date, etc. -->
<div class="views">
####VIEWS####
</div>
And the corresponding style sheet class is:
/* The text saying how many times this photo has been viewed */
.views { line-height: 200%; width: 50%; text-align: center; font-size: 6pt; display: inline; }
The ####VIEWS#### tag is replaced with the # of views of this photo so far, and the date it was last viewed. The style sheet class, in a nutshell, says to display this info as a 200% high line, taking up 50% of the available width, centered, using a 6pt font and stacked (inline) with the next <div>.
Now that doesn't explain it all... But the "views" div is nested inside this div:
<div class="medbanner">And the css for that is:
/* Horizontal banner used to hold "E-Mail This Page" and views information - Medium Gray */
.medbanner { height: 25px; border: 1px solid #333333; background-color: #666666; }This says: lets create a visual chunk of real estate, 25px high, with a 1px border (coloured #333333), and a background colour of #666666. That's how I get the "medium gray" coloured banner at the bottom of every page, and it contains the "E-Mail this page" link in the first 50% (left half) and the "views" info in the next 50% (right half).
Further, the "views" info that shows up on the right 50% of the medium gray banner is styled as we defined above ("200% high line, taking up 50% of the available width, centered, using a 6pt font and stacked (inline) with the next <div>").
So that builds up just one small piece of the puzzle, but once you understand the nexting and how the styles apply, the rest is just more of the same.
Hope that helps!
Cheers